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As your favourite online tyre shop, we would very much like to advertise on the radio, newspapers, TV, magazines etc… alas, we do not (yet). So… we have to let you know where to click to find our attractive deals and promotions!

S0, without further ado, please support AutoKinetics by staying up to date with our latest promotions on our hot deals at sgcarmart.com!

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The Rims Saga begins…

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Rims make or break the car. An example is above.

As we all know, rims are the metal bits between your tire and the car. In that aspect, they are extremely important to how your car functions. Low quality rims can be warped (not round), poorly balanced (thus requiring a lot of weights to balance) or very weak (shatter on impact).

This would lead to vibrations in the steering wheel, loss of car control, an uncomfortable ride, bad fuel economy and can be possibly fatal – should the rim fail catastrophically.

Today, car rims are getting cheaper and cheaper. Imports from China have flooded the market, providing a great variety of sizes and patterns. BUT…… are all these rims good? Or does the adage “you pay for what you get” stand?

OVERVIEW

Rim quality (in order from worst to best): Gravity Casted rim < Low Pressure Casted rim < High Pressure Casted rim < Liquid Forged rim/Forged rim/Billet Machined rim

Most rims that are made in China are gravity casted, whereas some Taiwan rims are low pressure casted and one (to my knowledge) is liquid forged. Some Taiwanese rims are also roll forged. Japanese rims are minimally pressure casted and some are forged. European rims are minimally low pressure casted and some are forged. American rims sold in Singapore are generally forged.

One may be surprised that even big name brands such as Breyton manufacture their rims in China (albeit not all, some are still from Germany). Certain over-hyped brands use low tech manufacturing methods yet still sell at exorbitant prices (sorry guys, as much as I would like to identify what brands they are, this is a public document and I would refrain from being explicit due to litigation issues. However if you are really interested, do email us and I will give you a personal reply). It is kind of like paying a high premium for a BMW without getting the high performance of a BMW, if you get my analogy.

Autokinetics would like to share and discuss about this topic but first let us get down to the basics.

HOW RIMS ARE MADE:

Rims are manufactured in 6 different methods:

  1. Gravity casting
  2. Low pressure casting
  3. High pressure casting
  4. Roll forged
  5. Liquid forging
  6. Cold forging

*there are hybrid composition methods used by some Japanese companies such as SSR and Enkei but their basis technological concept is the same

1. GRAVITY CASTING

Gravity casting is the cheapest and the lousiest of methods to make a wheel. As its name suggests, gravity casting is basically pouring liquid alloy into a mould and using the force of gravity to allow the molten metal to conform to the shape of the wheel.

In this manufacturing process, all the metal entering the mould is subjected to turbulence. This turbulence can cause severe defects such as oxide inclusions and entrapped gas porosity and in certain cases, mould erosion and hotspots.

Why is gravity casting undesirable? Due to the wheels being susceptible to:

  1. Air cavities within the metal
  2. Uneven expansion during cooling
  3. Uneven material density
  4. Low density
  5. Poor surface finish

This leads to a wheel that is not only weak but imbalanced and heavier than equivalent designs of similar size. We purchased a 15” SSR Type F replica. Though it’s a 15” without the tyre, it required 30 grams of weight just to balance.

While it may not seem much that 35g of weight is placed along the rim, with tyres this weight was required to be increased to 70g, meaning that there is a large amount of inertia generated when the wheel is spinning at high speeds. Though it may seem minor, these weights have implications on braking, acceleration, stability and fuel consumption.

Gravity casted wheels are heavier as they require more metal in order to achieve the required strength for their purpose. Below we can see the material grain structure of a casted wheel.

Here we can see the porosity of a casted wheel. As we can see, the wheel snapped on impact due to the shearing forces acting along the grain. Simply said, the grain structure of gravity casted wheels is not ideal for rims. In the picture, it shows what happens to a casted wheel when things go terribly wrong. (Note: above rim should be low pressure casted)

A clear example of a gravity casted wheel: the finishing is so bad that you can see the porosity of the metal even after it has been painted. Note the bulges in the metal.

Beware, if you see this, don’t buy it. It’s a low quality wheel. No matter how cheap it is, you’re risking your life!

2. LOW PRESSURE CASTING

Low Pressure casting is an upgrade from Gravity casting; it is marginally more expansive to manufacture wheels using this method. The benefits of Low Pressure casting are that the metal has less air cavities and slightly better density uniformity.

Most (not all) casted car wheels manufactured in Japan and Europe use this technology. Due to the added cost, such technology is seldom seen among the cheap China-made options flooding the market these days. Certain rims from Taiwan also use this technology.

The full benefits of Low Pressure casting are:

  1. Less air cavities
  2. Decrease in unwanted exposure to air when the alloy is molten (changes its properties)
  3. Improved density distribution of the alloy
  4. Better tolerances due to more uniform contraction and expansion of alloy upon cooling

Low Pressure casting enables wheels to be stronger than Gravity casting. Alas, a casting is still a casting and the grain structure of the alloy is not ideal, resulting in fissures upon impact. Low Pressure casted wheels are still subjected to air cavities in the metal, thereby decreasing the strength of the wheel.

All in all, Low Pressure casted wheels are more desirable than Gravity casted wheels. They allow for low costs to manufacturers thus translating to low prices for consumers, while at the same time improving the quality and strength of the wheel.

Some wheel brands using Low Pressure casting are ADVANTI and Kyowa.

Below is a picture of the finish of a Low Pressure casted wheel:

Note the porosity of the metal, here it can be seen that the finishing is much better than that of a Gravity casted wheel.

3. HIGH PRESSURE CASTING

High Pressure casting is the best of all the casting methods. However it is more expensive to produce a wheel using this method. There are very few wheels that are manufactured using High Pressure casting.

The molten alloy is forced into the moulds thus increasing density, reducing air cavities and creating a wheel that is more precise. However the grain structure of the alloy is still that of a casted form. Hence although the material is much stronger due to how it is manufactured, the grain structure of the material is still has marginal porosity. As a result, compared to Forging and Billet Machining, High pressure casted wheels are still weaker and also heavier in order to be sufficiently strong for use, due to material density.

Nevertheless, High Pressure casted wheels are getting better with improvements in their strength and weight approaching to that of the quality of Forged wheels.

However they are undoubtedly expansive. A form of High Pressure casting can be seen in certain wheels brands such as ENKEI, SSR and BuddyClub. ENKEI is notable as they use a form of semi-solid high pressure casting which changes the grain structure of their wheels towards a forged wheel.

The benefits of High Pressure casting are the improvements over Low Pressure casting on all fronts:

  1. Denser material
  2. Reduced air cavities
  3. Tighter tolerances
  4. More concentric wheel as rims are less subjected to expansion and contraction irregularities upon cooling

This leads to a wheel that is stronger, lighter and has a better finish. Examples of High Pressure casted wheels are Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 18” at 9 kg (unconfirmed production method but confirmed weight).

4. ROLL/ROTARY FORGED

Roll Forged rims are a rare type of wheel though present in Singapore. Only certain shops carry it and they come mostly in big sizes i.e. 18 inch onwards.

Roll forged rims are basically casted rims that have specially treated barrel section. This means that the whole rim is casted and the barrel of the rim, which is in contact with the tyres are rolled, compressed and formed by another machine.

Therefore what we have then is a hybrid wheel. The centre of the wheel is casted (the spokes) and the rim/barrel of the wheel is high pressure rolled. What this gives is a wheel that is lighter than a casted rim and has a stronger rim/barrel section. It must be noted that these wheels are not truly forged, as its basis is a casted wheel.

Roll forged barrels have lines when stripped of its paint like this.

5. LIQUID FORGING

Liquid Forged rims are a new generation of rims utilizing a special method of manufacture. They are basically liquid metal forced into a mould and cooled under pressure, giving them the approximate grain structure of a forged rim. Although Liquid Forging and High Pressure casting seem similar, the amount of pressure used is very different. There is much more compressive force in liquid forging.

There are many benefits to liquid forging:

  1. Very precise components and tolerances
  2. Void of air bubbles just like a forged or billet rim
  3. Very even material density
  4. Good surface finishing due to minimal porosity
  5. Very light weight wheel due to high density of material achieved

A picture of the material porosity: it can be seen that there is next to no visible porous ‘holes’ (the black specks are paint spilled over from spraying)

Liquid Forged rims are as light and possibly as strong as forged rims but at a lower price. Their manufacturing process is much more expensive than any form of casted rim. However they are indeed the best bang for buck (value-for-money) wheels in the market; coming in at half to a third of the price of forged rims in Japan or Europe yet having all the structural benefits of its more expensive counterparts.

Liquid Forged rims are extremely rare, to our knowledge only one company used to produce them and they have since shut down the plant in Taiwan. (Please let us know if you know of any company that has this technology for rims, if you know of any, thanks)

This is as Liquid Forged wheels are not well known in the market and coupled with the low brand exposure have consigned the liquid forged wheel to oblivion… for now.

For those lucky enough to find these wheels, they used to be sold under the Magline brand in Singapore. Those who use it before would know how strong and true (round) these wheels are. I know, because I am using a Magline 8 which I purchased second hand to replace the initial wheels I had. My old set of casted wheels were not round when they were first sold to me brand new, they vibrated so badly that my metal watch would make a clacking sound on my wrist no matter how many weights I used to balance them.

What is even more appalling is that those wheels were from a very big tyre company… all I can say is that they were made in Philippines. To date after 8 years of driving, through Malaysia and bad roads and careless kerbing, the Magline rims are amazingly still perfectly round and have perfect balance. Best of all for a 16” wheel, it weighs in only at 5kg odd!

If you look closely you can see the damage to the rim on the bottom right corner, I used 280 grit then 400 grit sand papers to repair the damage.

Balance is still perfect!

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzRWD-BK-Zo&w=425&h=349]

Currently Autokinetics has the last remaining production run of Liquid Forged Magline 5 rims in Singapore. Unfortunately they are very limited and are only in 18” form and PCD 5×114.3 for Japanese cars. Once this stock is exhausted, there will be no more as I have received confirmation from the factory that they have closed down permanently. Sets are very limited (less the 11 remaining!) and are moving fast, call 91853389 (Bryan) or email sales@autokinetics.sg for enquiries.

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPOg23vp1qU&w=560&h=349]

6. COLD FORGING

Cold forged wheels are wheels that are crafted like a samurai sword without the heating of metal.

Cold forged wheels are extremely costly to produce. They are made from a solid block of alloy metal using large hydraulic presses. Typically an 18” cold forged wheel costs between $900-2000 per rim. For certain Porsche rims, the price exceeds 2000 SGD per rim.

Cold forged rims are exceptionally strong and light. They are the best money can buy.

The benefits to cold forging are:

  1. Very precise components and tolerances
  2. Void of air bubbles
  3. Very even material density
  4. Good surface finishing due to minimal porosity
  5. Very high material density
  6. Very light weight wheel due to high density of material achieved

Companies that produce forged rims are NEEZ, HRE, ADV.1, Prodrive, Rays Engineering and so forth. While they are the best wheels money can buy, they are painfully expensive and thus normally do not come in small sizes. A 15” forged SSR Spec C costs around 500 SGD per piece. If you can afford one, get one. They are the best, with cold forged wheels, nothing else comes close.

Conclusion:

Wheels are an important part of your vehicle, dollar for dollar they represent the best upgrade you can make while improving your car. On the aesthetic front, they improve the look of your car like no other mod. Secondly, by allowing the decrease in rotating inertia and un-sprung mass, they provide more usable power, shorter braking distances, a more comfortable ride and improved handling.

So forget your lightened pulley systems or fancy body kits for now, put your money where it matters and where it would make the biggest difference to your drive, lap times, comfort and your safety.

Why does un-sprung mass and rotational inertia affect handling and comfort? COMING next…. The basics of handling…

I hope this sharing has managed to enlighten our esteemed readers out there.

Bryan Wong

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That cocktail you put in your Car..

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The dreaded petrol station where fuel flow in and money flows out. Some of us simply find the nearest pump to fill up, some of us religiously check which fuel is best for their cars and measure the mileage results, and yet, did you ever question what is in that expensive concoction that goes into your beloved car?

For the benefit of 99% of car users in Singapore, let’s talk about PETROL here.

Shell FuelSave

Shell FuelSave consists of Shell’s proprietary Shell Efficiency Improver, formulated to improve lubrication in areas where normal engine oils cannot reach. Thus, this additional lubrication reduces friction compared to normal fuels and thus, is claimed to save up to 1 litre per full tank of 50 litres, or up to 2%. This applies across the board of RON95 and 98 petrols.

Esso Synergy

Esso Synergy in Singapore is categorized into 3 different petrols, 8000, 5000 and 2000. Esso has deemed fit to grant Synergy 8000 with additional additives to provide better benefits such as fully synthetic friction reducer to keep the fuel injectors and intake valves clean… and that’s about it. Synergy 5000 and 2000 do not possess this friction reducer additive.

Caltex Techron®

Caltex with Techron® yup, is once again designed for unbeatable cleaning power with the bonus of a smooth throttle response with their combustion enhancer. Caltex comes in Regular 92, Premium 95 and Platinum 98, a welcome addition in the Singapore market.

SPC Levo

And look who’s jumped into the game? Of cos our neighbourhood’s friendly SPC. SPC LEVO is yup, you guessed it, cleans and protects the engine thanks to detergent and corrosion inhibitors, designed to remove carbon deposits and prevent corrosion in the engine.

Shell V-Power

And finally, we come to everyone’s favourite household name, Shell V-Power. The petrol is presumed by some to be RON100, and with Shell’s FMT, or Friction Modifier Technology. Many exotic car owners swear by this petrol only. Wait a minute, isn’t this the same benefits as SPC Levo, Caltex Techron® and Esso Synergy 8000? 😛

With so many choices available to us, do we actually care about how it performs in real world? I’d like to attempt to.

Having driven a carbureted car before, they respond tremendously to petrol grades. In the good old days of lore, we do not have advanced knock sensors able to retard ignition timing etc. What we have is an amazingly primitive form of tuning by listening to any engine knock at load, and adjusting the angle of the distributor so as to advance or retard ignition. This is actually done when the car is parked at the roadside and the mechanic operates on the distributor with the bonnet up.

I remembered in my days of tinkering with the Weber carburetor, it behaved (and misbehaved) to the type of petrol given. Being a high compression setup, I could only feed it RON98 petrol minimum.

On the Shell 98, the engine was damn noisy and rough when accelerating, while returning meagre mileage. However, the engine absolutely purrs when I feed it Esso 98 (with friction reducers), and it gave absolutely fantastic mileage, in the region of 40km more average per tank. Feed it with SPC98, I had the worst time of my life. The engine was anemic, and couldn’t rev above 6000 rpm, and with a terrible mileage to boot. Interestingly, on Caltex Platinum 98, the engine was amazingly quiet, but I had terrible mileage as well. Engine run too smooth they say. VPower was wonderful too, with the engine smoothly revving to 7000 rpm without any drama. But it was very dear to my wallet, being average of $4-5 more per tank.

In the end, I always stuck with Esso 98, and the occasional “Formula 98 at VPower Prices!” promotions that we have all been suckered into at least once. This lead me to conclude that friction modifiers do actually affect ancient engine designs.

But hey, who cares about old engines, most of us are on new EFI engines right? Over a long extended period of testing with newer cars, force-induction or naturally aspirated, I must say that Esso Synergy 8000 generally keeps naturally aspirated engines happy while returning good mileage, while VPower does an excellent job at suppressing engine knock in turbocharged or high compression engines, frequently returning higher Dyno figures than other petrols. Maybe the rumour of it being RON100 may be true?

But who knows, with the trend of additives in petrol, with the latest entrant into the game being SPC’s LEVO petrol range, we can hope to see a general improvement in fuel quality in Singapore. Maybe its time to try SPC LEVO…

So, any Maserati/Ferrari/Lamborghini owners care to share their experiences?

Disclaimer: These fuel testings are based solely on my personal experiences with petrols and are not indicative of actual fuel quality.

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AutoKinetics – The Way it Should Be